FORZA WIN (ter)
Forza Win (ter) is the ultimate in what makes a pop-up that’s become permanent great. Its’ founder Bash Redford brims with warmth, hospitality and a passion for his ingredients that is truly infectious.
I love the way the Peckham warehouse is decorated with Neon signs and a random collection of found objects that couldn’t be styled.
From the frothy creamy take on g & t garnished with thyme to the warm punch (red wine and Campari) served with dessert every detail had been obsessively thought through yet delivered with consummate style.
There’s no standing on ceremony here. A beautiful well griddled romanesco cauliflower is placed proudly yet unceremoniously on the sharing tables with a knife stabbed into it plus a bowl of salsa rosso. We just break it up, dip and scoff – delicious. A large bowl of housemade fetucelle with masses of wild mushrooms and exceptionally moreish rosemary sourdough crumb is next up. Despite the warning that there is so much more to come we polish it off. A brick and nightlight arrangement is in place for the fonduta made with fontal, fontina and parmesan – tasty in a richly umami way though it doesn’t stay molten enough to dip the fantastically earthy and flavourful heritage carrots, aged Delicia pumpkin slices and heritage carrots. Platters groaning with porchetta stuffed with chestnuts and adorned with plentiful, luscious crackling and kale arrive next. Wood-roasting gives the pork a humdinger of intense flavour and the flesh falls away in tenderness. Can we really manage dessert too. Somehow appetites re-ignite for a spectacular pear semi-freddo with a pear puree topped with almonds, luscious, fruity and sophisticated in taste. If this is the future of dining, it is where I want to be.
£35.00 per head for full feast. Natural wines to accompany extra.